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Macro Photography - Show the Detail not Visible to the Eye

Approaching macro photography for the first time can be full of ugliness especially if your first attempts fail badly. Many beginners discover the Depth of Field (DoF) is very small, images are out of focus because the focus is critical in macro photography with the small DoF, Camera shake and subject movement (due to using longer shutter speeds to allow for small apertures and/or not using a sturdy tripod), increased noise (if you use a higher ISO to compensate for the small apertures needed), or badly composed photos. And this can get frustrating.

(the following was already covered in my first article Welcome to the
World of Macro
but here is a reminder)


Macro Photography requires special equipment which can get expensive, but so what we photographers like to spend money on equipment. Without some form of macro equipment you will not be able to produce a photo with a high enough quality to please yourself.

For macro Photography (in most other forms of photography as well) the camera body is not as important as a quality lens and the best to start off with macro is to go out and buy a dedicated macro prime lens. I strongly suggest buying a lens with the ability to magnify 1:1. Watch out for lens manufacturers calling normal lenses macro lenses due to an ability to focus slightly closer than normal. These are not proper macro lenses and normally offer only 1:5 or 1:4 magnification.

There are several other techniques for macro photography, please review the article : Welcome to the World of macro for more information !

When it comes to macro technique, you need to be aware of a few common bad habits. Light is of essence in macro photography (as it is in most forms of photography). Using very small apertures to get a good DoF means using longer shutter speeds even in good light. This causes camera shake and subject movement issues. That is why you should never attempt macro photography without a tripod if you want to achieve the best image possible. Using a tripod is one of the problems solved! To get better light you might want to consider an external flash or if you really wanna go for it get a macro
twin light.

To make the tripod issue even more important: another issue is the depth of field. You need a very small aperture (high number = small aperture) to get enough depth of field in your macro work. The narrow depth of field often encountered in macro work is sometimes used to give a macro photograph a certain special feel or bokeh, but this has to be used wisely and very selectively because in most cases, it will be better to have sufficient depth of field.

To get sufficient depth of field you need to stop down the lens (aperture of 16 or higher,high number = small aperture). So your subject most likely has already too little  light on it. You are letting a very small portion of that through to your digital sensor. This underlines the necessity of the tripod !!!

Composition seems to be a bit more difficult with macro photography especially if you are taking nature macro photos. Here you run into the problem that your subject might be a bee or a dragon fly or another moving insect. So you might end up being in a tricky situation since you need to approach the insect very carefully. Decent composition can be difficult at times but there are no golden rules you can follow, you simply need to play around with composition until you find something that works.

It is also important to realize that for insect photography early mornings tend to be the best time for photography as the insects will still be warming up from the cold night and are more approachable at this time. When they warm up they will fly off at any hint of danger or movement.

My best advice I can give you, take your equipment, go out there and practice, practice, practice ...plenty of it ! This is the way to improve and get better, you know that no master of photography was born overnight.

Related Articles :

- AR-News : Welcome to the World of Macro
- AR - News : Macro November 1
- AR News: Macro Photography November II
- Aperture in Macro Photography !
______

:thumb70305134:



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Visit #macroART

Regards
`hellfirediva

How to : Find Art Thieves

Journal Entry: Thu Jan 3, 2013, 12:12 PM
Please :+fav: this journal, so that a lot of people can read it.

I noticed that a lot of people don't know how to search for their photos on the internet, so here is a short tutorial. Unfortunately there isn't much you can do about art thieves, but i still think it is important to look out for them.

1. visit Google.com

2. Go to the page of the photo you want to search and click "show image"


3. Copy the Link and paste it into google.


4. This page should open, click "search by image".


5. Now you can browse trough the results.


6. The less results the happier you should be.



EDIT : You can also use websites like : tineye.com and iqdb.com
This was pointed out to me by some people, personally i have no experience with them, but i am sure that they work too. :aww:

Journal CSS By ~dot-Silver
In General

Well, a few words about Infrared.
I will not get too technical cause it’s not my strong side, just a few words about it. Infrared photographs show a kind of thermo effect. Trees with white leaves and luminous white clouds against colored skies are the most common use for it. Many photographers on DA have tried it in the last few years and it seems to be more and more popular.
The Infrared opens a window on a parallel world intriguingly different to the one we usually see. The effect is surreal ans it shows a different kind of "documenting reality".

Here you can see the scene in normal view


And here is when using the IR filter -


We can't see Infrared light without the filter, we can only see it when It's isolated. Infrared photography is often confused with thermal imaging. It's not, It's just shows an effect similar to that. The difference is basically one of wavelength of electromagnetic radiation.
The filter shows the object because the sun (or some other light source) shines infrared light on it and it is reflected or absorbed by the object. You could say that this reflecting or absorbing of infrared helps to determine the object's color in a four-dimensional color space made up of blue, green, red and infrared.



Camera and filter

If you are using film camera, I won't get into this.
Important you know! Digital cameras don’t work evenly with IR filter.
Digital sensors have a special infrared-blocking filter in front of the light-sensitive CCD array, as the IR light degrades the visible-light image quality. The question is how much of infrared will the filter let through.
There are a few great compact digital models like the Sony 717, The Olympus C-2020z, Minolta Dimage 7, and the canon G1 (the G2 is great too). Among the DSLR the Nikon D70 and D50 are the best option right now. Canon popular models don't support high quality IR (and most other models and brands). That means that it can shoot IR but in lower quality (clarity, sharpness, colors) then the Nikon D70 (D70s) and D50.
Check out more about the Infrared sensitivity here [link]

Of course it’s much harder working IR with DSLR, since you have no preview of the result, and it’s impossible to see anything through the viewfinder, with the filter attached. I’ll get to this later (In technique).
The filter I use and recommend is Hoya R72.
There are several others that get good results, but this one gets the classic color effect in the best way possible.

  

You can test your non DSLR camera for IR photography
Use the “TV remote test” to determine if your digital camera is sensitive to infrared light.  Television remote controls use infrared light to turn the TV on and off and to change channels.  Aim your TV remote control at the lens of your digital camera from a few inches away, push a button on your remote, and view the image on the LCD panel (not the optical viewfinder) of the camera.  If you see a white flash of light coming from the TV remote on your camera’s LCD screen, you’ve just determined that your camera is infrared-sensitive. That only means that the camera is capable of shooting IR, but not the quality of the results.

    

What if my camera is not IR sensitive?
Well, there are options to shoot IR with models that don't support it. However, they mean you damage the ability of the camera to capture 'normal' photography. Basically you remover the glass that protects the CCD in the camera.
You can remove it and replace it with a built in IR filter (convert the camera completely for shooting IR), or simply replace the glass for a regular glass and reducing the IR block of the camera (could damage you normal photography, and you still need to use a filter for IR).
If you really love IR it is recommended you convert your camera. Working with a converted camera is much easier. You can shoot short exposures and get better details. However, you need to do it on a spare camera since the camera is useless for regular photography.

For more on that - [link] and [link]



Technique

OK, so we are talking about shooting IR with a DSLR (a regular one)

Tripod -
Besides your digital camera and filter, a tripod is an absolute necessity since exposures through the infrared filter should be long.  For long exposures, some cameras will automatically fire the flash to light the scene, because the camera’s “brain” thinks its dark.  But you don’t want to use flash. Be sure to turn off the flash so the camera will make the exposure by infrared light.
  
Iso settings -
Work in low Iso (50-200) so you won’t pick up too much noise.

Camera function -
Work in fully Manual (if possible) to get a good light reading from the camera, so You’ll know if you are using a long enough exposure.

Set White Balance -
This is the part that most beginners go wrong...
You will have to measure the white balance yourself. That’s the secret of getting a good color balance in IR photography (with digital photography). Measure the WB in ‘PRE’ condition with your filter ON from something green as green grass (not in the shade.. in a sunny area). That would get you the right balance. Test the result, and if needed, try measuring it again.
You should know: Nikon generates more colors in IR then Canon. The canon will get almost B&W when adjusting the WB. Nikon will get B&W and also brown.  

Composition -
To begin, photograph a daylight scene in auto WB.  Mount your camera on the tripod and compose the shot normally (Take the widest angle possible for a landscape shot) without the infrared filter over the lens, and make a normal, color picture.  The color picture will be a “reference” picture.  You might want to combine it with the infrared picture for creative effect later.

Final steps -
After you composed it, and focused it, in the color version, take it out of Auto focus. Mount the filter carefully, so you won’t destroy the camera position and composition. Switch your WB to the pre position (that you measured earlier). Now, shoot a second picture in exactly the same way except go through the infrared filter.  With the infrared filter on the lens, you’ll see the infrared effect on the camera’s LCD viewing screen (or only in the result in DSLR cameras).  The image will appear dark and a monochromatic red-pink in color.  This is normal for an infrared picture.  After you shoot the picture, you should review the image on the camera’s LCD screen and check for proper exposure.  If the image is dark, you might want to switch the camera to manual and increase the exposure.  





Post processing

Once you’ve captured your infrared images, you’ll want to do a little clean up in an image-processing program like Photoshop.



When you open the infrared image file, you’ll probably see a monochromatic red-pink image that might be a little bit dark. You may want to adjust the curves or levels to brighten the image.  





Also, you may want to adjust the contrast to your liking.  By Now you have an image very similar to one shot on infrared film, but without the hassles.



I usually love to change the channels, to replace the red with a blue.
In Photoshop go to Image>Adjustments>Channel mixer you will first see the setting to the red channel.



The red is on 100 and the green and blue are on 0. Turn the red to 0 and the blue to 100.



Now go to the blue channel (the top drop down menu in the message box). Turn the red to 100 and the blue to 0.

Now, look at the difference -

Before -   After -

The channels have switched and if you want a better balance change the settings a bit.

If the ‘Whites’ are a bit ‘Reddish’, you can go to Image>adjustments>Hue/saturation and lower the saturation of the red (and yellow) channel.

That’s the IR story in short.
Photography by the “invisible” light of infrared can open a new world of artistic expression. I love it, and I hope you do too :hug:
Feel free to add from your own experience, add tips, and ask questions.
Again, I’m not sure I’ll be able to answer all, But I’ll try.

  

Good Links: [link] [link] And a wonderful galley to enjoy [link]

I submitted a tutorial on IR in my journal, and I got many questions regarding technique ans models fitting for IR photography. Please take a look to know more - [link]
A cosplay photography introductory lesson of sorts, for the growing number of cosplay enthusiasts in the deviantART community.

An illustrated outline of things to consider for photoshoots, also identifying the differentiating factors of cosplay photography as compared to more classical portraiture.

[http://behindinfinity.deviantart.com/journal/16401555/]
How to make your uploads Stronger

This is a guide to making your uploads more individual and taken more seriously.
Not a absolute answer guide, just some suggestions.

Upload:
* Try not to upload 10 images in a row, make sure you only upload 1-2 each day.
People need time to look through their center and if you upload to much, they are most likely to jump over a few of them.
The other thing is that it might seem to people that you just snapshot and upload right away, even though you might used a lot of time on it.

Image Title:
*What title should i give my image? Make sure you give a title you think suits the image, a image with a strong title makes the artwork
itself better and change the way people see the theme and concept.
My suggestion is that you think about the feeling you had when you worked on the image, or the feeling you want the image to show.
Let`s say you worked on a painting that reminded you about your childhood. You there have many titles; Childhood dreams, looking back, nostalgic, here now.
It is up to you, take your time on each image and think it through, it will give you a stronger attachment to the work.

Information
*Make sure you include information that is important to you in the comment field.
Copyright notice, saying that your work can not be used without your permission.
Information regarding the process is highly appreciated by the community, and it can bring the viewer closer.
Sometimes it is best not to say, to keep the mystery, that is up to you to judge.
Tell people that all feedback is appreciated.

Feedback:
Appreciate and handle all sorts of feedback.
People supporting you are not a given, appreciate all the feedback, both critique and compliments, both short comments and in depth.
People taking the time to tell you have they feel about something you made, is a bliss.

Questions
*Try to answer peoples question regarding the piece.
I often fail here myself, but try to answer all questions and help out people to understand how you got the result you did.
People will take both you and your artwork more serious and they will come back.

Category:
*Find the category that suits the image you upload, a lot of people react on misplaced deviations, and it can seem like you don`t care.

Idea:
*If your concept/idea is totally inspired by a artist, tell it in the comment field and explain that you wanted to show your angle on the concept, people appreciate honesty.

Be Proud
*Do not tell people how bad you think the image is, and that you should scrap it soon. Let people decide for them self what they feel about your work, don`t push it down. Be proud of your work.
Do not beg people to see your work. Your work is yours and it is great, keep on supporting others and doing what you do, and feedback will come.


Art is Life :heart:

Thank you all for making this the nr.1 art community.
PHOTOGRAPHY, A BEGINNERS GUIDE


After a recent pool i had, it seems like people miss more tutorials and guides to photography.
So i am gonna give it my best and make this easy and hopefully helpful.
No absolute answer to everything, but things from my point of view, including some facts.
Advanced facts that sounds sexy will not be included here, Mostly because you don`t need that information to take great photos.
But i will give you url to all the major subjects so that you can read in-depth about them.

CAMERA

First things first, you gonna need a camera, the question on everyones lips is; What camera should i get?
Whats with the freaking megapixels? what is a dslr?

A digital camera/Point and shoot, does not give you the opportunity to change lenses.
Meaning, that the zoom and usability of the lens is as it is.
That does not make it horrible, but for photographers who work with Macro and wildlife photography, that requires a zoom and a magnification that a point-and-shoot camera rarely gives, at least not with great quality.
for concepts and portraits, a camera like that can work great, especially if it has advanced settings that lets you change aperture ( Depth of field ) and shutterspeed.

On a dslr camera, you can buy lenses/objects that you attach to the camera house ( 1 at the time off course ) depending on the type of photos and effects you are after. It is bound to cost more, but the possibilities are endless.

Dslr
In this scenario, lets say you have decided to buy a dslr, and the questions is what brand and type.
i am not going to push any brand, but personally i recommend buying one of the larger brands ( Canon, Nikon, Samsung e.t.c )
since they have the widest range of equipment and gadgets to use with your camera.

Going in depth about Lenses would require a article by itself, so i recommend reading up on that subject.
There is Wideangle, Fisheye, Macro, Zoom, and so on.
When you have understood what aperture is ( hopefully by the end of this ), it will be a tad easier. Since lenses have different ways.

i could write 10 pages about pixels, but as i said, lets keep it easy.
Basically the amount of megapixels on a camera determents how large the image is going to turn out.
A 8 megapixel camera has a 2304 x 3456 and will give you best quality print up to 20 x 30 cm.
megapixels does not mean better quality, actually, a larger megapixel amount on the camera often leads to dead pixels.

The camera image sensor is where the image process is happening, and when it is less pixels it does not have to "force"
information to the image.
many pixels can work great, IF the camera sensor is build for it ( often a camera series have the same sensor, but increase in megapixels, therefor a sensor that was used for 8 megapixels is now used for 12, something that makes the 4 added megapixels grainy and less quality ).
Sure you can get a great camera with a lot of pixels, but not cheap, if you want quality.

i will recommend anything from 8 - 12 when you start with photography.
you can print your stuff, and you get what you need.
30 megapixels + is very useful if you are a professional photographer who needs larger prints for advertising.
But don`t be fooled by the cheap mini cameras with 15+ megapixels.  

It is important to remember that even with the best equipment, photos does not automatically becomes amazing.
i seen amazing work with cheap equipment, and bad work with the best, visa versa.

SUMMARY:

* The size and price of a compact camera, makes it a perfect travel friend and it is easy to use.

* A dslr gives you more options, and you get to choose every setting for yourself, therefor be more creative with certain types of shots.

* A large pixel number does not mean better quality

* Learn to compose and read about photography, before you buy a massive amount of equipment


SHUTTERSPEED, ISO, DEPTH OF FIELD

I see many people here who struggle to understand what shutterspeed is, and how crucial it is to learn about it.
To put it simple, the shutterspeed is how long the camera "takes the photo aka how long the sensor is open."
If you are gonna freeze a moment, the camera has to take the image fast enough to not catch a blurry movement.
but, naturally if the sensor is only open for 1/500 sec it does not get enough time to suck up a lot of light, and therefor you need
a strong light source or bump up your ISO.


Is one of the images i took when i began to understand little by little how important it is to learn how to use the correct shutterspeed.
As you can see here, i used 1/4000 sec when i took this shot, that is so fast you can`t even start to blink.
when the camera took the image so fast, it got little time to suck up light, so i used strong lamps around the water, and a flash at its strongest settings. Flash takes time to learn, but it is a great tool if you want to take shots like this.
the flash in the camera is weak, so i recommend buying an external one.



We talked about fast shutterspeed, but lets talk about slow.
Seen the great landscape shots here on dA? The once where the sea is all silky and the sky is soft lines?
That is the use of slow shutterspeed.
it seems pretty advanced, and in fact, sometimes it is.
When leaving the sensor open for, lets say, 10 sec, the camera takes a 10 second shot, and sucks up the light for all the amount of time.
movement and activity that happens during those 10 sec, naturally affects the shot.
the difficult part of slow shutterspeed is that if you have strong light source ( Sun e.t.c ) the camera will make that part overbright/overexposure,
because it is so light compared to the darker parts.
If you are serious about using slow shutterspeed, i recommend trying out ND filters and such.
ND filters a a glass/plastic filters you put in front of your lens, and it darken the upper/ left/right/bottom part of the shot, depending on where the strongest light source is, you just twist it around.
it is a great way to balance the light.
if you are gonna use slow shutterspeed, you are gonna need a tripod to put your camera on.
You want the movement of the surroundings, but you want the things that are still to get sharp.


Here we see an example of the use of slow shutterspeed.
the Camera takes the pictures for over one minute, and the sky and sea that moves during that time, gets washed out.
Very interesting and artistic effect. Easy to understand, hard to master.




ISO

10 pages can be written about ISO, but to shorten it down. low ISO number 50-100 gives you the best quality, but it requires more light.
if you use 800 ISO the camera is more sensitive and you can take image in low light conditions, but it will give you camera grain.
The combination between ISO and Shutterspeed is one of the most important aspects of photography if you want to get the shot right.
You need a fast enough shutterspeed to avoid camera blur, but you want to keep the ISO low.
I am not gonna give a absolute number here, because i think it is best to try it out for yourself.
Personally i prefer to work with 1/160 sec, because i always shot hand held.
One more thing you have to think about, is that the more MM ( Zoom ) The faster shutterspeed the camera requires.
Like before, you need to try out and find the best setting for the environment and light you are in.


Depth of field

So, you seen those images where the background is all out of focus? And some where everything, all the way back, is in focus?
That has everything to do with the depth of field ( labeled and written as F ).
The Dof is, to put it easy, how much of the image you want in focus/ how much depth you want in the field.
a wide aperture 20-30F, will make the camera focus on the whole surface, what you focus on, and the things behind it.
a lower F 2-5 will make the focus clear on the main focus, and leave the rest gradually blurred.
Depending on the type of image, this really gives the special touch.
One major important thing, is that the higher the F the more light is needed, because the camera needs more time to get everything in focus.
if you are shooting on music concert, you can forget about the F 10 and above, you need to get it as low as possible, so that camera quickly can suck up the light and give you fast enough shutterspeed to avoid the camera blur.


I knew i wanted a soft approach when i photographed these, but i wanted a sharp point to.
I bumped the F down to 2.8, that got the front flowers in focus, and the background out of focus.
if i chosen F 10, the camera would need 3X the shutterspeed that was required with F 2.8, and the artistic touch with the background blurred,
would be gone.



is an example of an image where the large F gives that wow.
all the way to the back of the image, the camera has focused.
it required a tripod, i am sure, and the result is stunning.


SUMMARY:

* You need a fast shutterspeed to freeze a movement and avoid camera blur.

* A slow shutterspeed will leave the lens open longer, and can give your creative and blurry effects.

* Try out and learn when and how to use the right ISO number, depending on the light you have available.

* aperture ( F ) determines how much of the image you want in focus. the more you choose to focus on, the more light and/or time is needed, so you have to find out when you need both the main and back in focus, or the background out of focus.
when you can afford to use a large F, and when a lower F is needed to maintain the shutterspeed.
this combination between aperture, ISO and shutterspeed, is what makes the difference between a great photo and a snapshot.

IN DEPTH INFO

Camera: [link]

Compact camera: [link]

Dslr camera: [link]

Shutterspeed: [link]

ISO ( Both digital and analog ): [link]

Depth of field: [link] & [link]

Bokeh: [link]

Macro: [link]

----------------------------------------------------------------

Thats about it. The basic you "need" to know about photography to get great shots.
Composition and creativity plays a major part to.
If there is Passion, there is great result.

I used a lot of time on this, so if you have any negative feedback, please make it helpful instead of rude.
this is far from an absolute genius guide, but it is my attempt to help people understand the basic.
i have forgotten some, and included to much of some, it cant be helped.
there are written hundreds of books on each subject here, and this is the Sortvind way  :aww:

Any questions and feedback is welcome, i Hope it is helpful.
Last week I did a poll on what subject you would be most interested to hear my opinion about. The majority wanted to know on "Finding your own style" ([link]). Here are some pointers on that.

General thoughts
Photography has been here for a very long time. Every category in photography already been tried, most places have been photographed, portraits have been done, special techniques, weather... So what do we still find exiting and unique?
The answer is not in "what's being said", rather in "the way we say it". It's not the subject of the photo, rather the way we take it, show it, make our own definition of it. If you group 20 photographers in one scene, all having the same cameras, you will still get many different photos. On the other hand, you can tell which photo is who's just by looking at a photo - recognize the style. I have to say that finding your style is not a process you are aware to. It happens while doing photography and you suddenly find you have your own "trademark". Still, we can grow awareness by simply helping ourselves in the process.

A short story
Alex Libak, a photographer I look up to told once he was sent from his newspaper to a bonus photography course abroad. He was already a successful photographer so he thought he would do it just for the trip. In the first lesson the lecturer put 3 eggs on the table. He asked each of the students to take a picture of the 3 eggs. Nothing more, and nothing less. By this point Alex was really skeptical on what he has to learn from this. In the second lesson each photographer had to show his photographs of the 3 eggs. Alex was amazed to see each one of the students did it completely different.  One played with shadows, one did a strange crop, one did a play of depth of field... each one had a different point of view. That was a lesson in modesty. There is room for different point of view, different style, no matter how good of a photographer you are.

Looking for your style
The first thing is to search for something that can be defined as your style. For that you need to do mainly two things -
1. Shoot a lot of spontaneous shots
2. Look at a lot of photography by others, and get inspired.

Think differently, Be different
ok, you take a lot of pictures, still you don't know if you have a style and what is it.
That's normal. Now it's time to challenge yourself. You see a tree and you have already taken pictures of trees before. Now, you try to do it differently. Maybe angle? exposure? filter? point of view? depth of field? It doesn't matter - it just have to be different than anything you tried before. You have to challenge yourself again and again. If you let yourself be a cliché, you won't find your own point of view.
While experimenting like that, with the help of the inspiration you get from other photos you see and like, you will be drawn to a certain point of view, that is unique to you. You are now different.

Experiment with different categories of photography
You know what you like to see (portraits, nature, street, landscape, still life, fashion). Are you sure this is what you want to shoot as well?
You have to try a little of each category. That's what a skillful photographer has to do. Maybe while trying a macro shot you will stumble upon a different point of view relating to something that really speaks to you? You can never know. Finding your style means searching and searching and searching.
After a while of doing that, you will feel comfortable with certain categories. That will probably be a part of later will be - your style.

Your opinion is a part of your style
I'm a true believer that art is all about expression. Expression is an opinion. You don't have to give answers, just raise the questions. After you look at things differently, you need to think of what the photo you take represents, what thought will run through the viewers head watching the photo. It's a part of your style - what your photo expresses.

You won't even know you have a style
Style is defined by time. You can't find something fresh right away. You need to find the box in order to think out of it, "out of the box". After a while, you will get outside feedback from others that can see your signature in your work. You will be wise to ask and investigate what do they mean. It's not alway defined, but it's worth trying to figure it out.

Technique and presentation
That's the package, but it's just as important. Finding those things you focus on. The way you compose your work, The way you crop it, special filters you use, flipping the pictures, reflections, B&W, a color theme, patterns, scales, silhouettes, long exposures... all those can be defined as styles if they repeat themselves in your work

To sum it up
Style is in other words - you.
You can't be unique until you are able to escape what  you grasp as "normal". You will be simply doing "more of the same" until you challenge yourself to find your personal statement. Even then you need to keep on experimenting to do "fine tunning" on it. Style is something that changes, and still stays you. Think of the photographers you like... can you define a certain style in their work? I bet you can.

The wonderful thing about personal style is that People will recognize your work like recognizing your face in a crowd. Your photography becomes you. You are now a unique artist.

For my full journal on it, and past tutorials -> [link]



A GUIDE TO HELP CHOOSE A CAMERA



I get this question in my messages/emails everyday so I thought I'd write a news article to get it out there for you! That way my emails don't go unanswered either.

QUESTION - What is the best camera to buy?

ANSWER - There is no 'best' camera out there, a camera is suited to what YOU want. Think about it, if you old school and want a vintage look to your photographs, then the best result for the style you want would be a film camera, possibly a Holga / Polaroid.
If you are a budding fashion/portrait/landscape photographer, then you'd go for a higher end digital photographer, unless you want to go back to photography roots and use film for this.
On the other hand, if you're a documentary photographer you could use digital or film. If you're a budding Henri Cartier-Bresson, you might be using film exclusively, to achieve that very raw film look.
If you're a professional photographer then you need something that matches your job, most agencies will look for DIGITAL, because it's standard for magazines and you get the job done quicker, it's also vital because of all the editing techniques you can do digitally. You will also need to consider the amount of megapixels it has, from my experience, most clients/agencies will be looking for something 8 mpx +, stock agency websites look for 12 mpx +

Choosing your perfect camera will involve a bit of research, this is quite daunting when you're first starting out. I remember the first time I laid my eyes on the millions of cameras staring out of me from the glass case at a local camera store, scrolling through millions of camera websites online. I honestly didn't have a clue, and for most of you reading this (or I hope you are!) you'll be in the same position.

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1. First, it's the big question - DIGITAL or FILM.

Both have their advantages and disadvantages -

DIGITAL Advantages
- Can be used automatically (even though this isn't the best way to start)
- Economical, you can print your own prints through a basic photo printer and you can get very cheap photographs at your local camera shop/lab or online shops.
- Memory card can be used and emptied over and over again, without the need of buying film
- Very easy to process, your digital darkroom is accessible at the click of a button!
- Most cameras have an LCD screen so you can view your photo, and playback the ones you've took. This is easier to proof your photos so you can get rid of the ones you don't like immediately.

FILM Advantages
- More hands on meaning you value your work more, you have created it from capturing to printing
- 35mm films range from 8 megapixel up to 18 megapixels
- Better for large prints - for detail
- You can easily proove you are the owner, because you have orginal prints and negatives (this is important in copyright cases, where digital would be much harder to recognise)

DIGITAL Disadvantages
- Digital files can easily be deleted (computer problems, memory stick errors etc)
- You need to spend quite a bit of money to get a quality camera (around 8mpx)

FILM Disadvantages
- Takes a long time to process (capturing an image to the printing process takes about a day)
- You can easily loose your pictures (through accidently letting light into the film, putting the film incorrectly on the spindle, not mixing the right chemicals)
- You cannot view your images until they have been processed
- Film is costly. Nowadays film and processing equipment is very expensive. Due to the demand of digital cameras in the industry there is no need for film, so producers raise the costs of the equipment.


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2. MEGAPIXEL

A pixel is a single point in a graphic image. Every 1 megapixel means '1 million' pixels.

If you've chosen to go for a digital camera, you need to understand that the higher the megapixels, the higher the resolution. Unlike film, you need to get a camera that states what megapixel it is.

If it's likely you will only be shooting family snaps and printing 4x6 to 8x10 prints, you obviously have no need for a better camera, for you I would recommend anything 5 megapixel upwards.

If you're an amateur or semi-pro and it's likely you will be shooting portraits / art photography / landscapes or documentary, you're megapixel must be much higher. I would recommend anything 7 upwards.

if you're a professional, and you're need for resolution is bigger (for instance, you're on an agency and you're working for bigger clients who demand high res) you will need something about 10 mpx over.


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3. COMPACT or SLR?

SLR (Single Lens Reflex) - an interchangeable lens camera, is better for those that want to become professional. You *will* need to change your lenses to suit your need.
You will also be able to manually focus, and you get much more control over the overall focus.

COMPACT - Even though compact cameras come with a good amount of megapixel nowadays AND claim they give you full manual control, it's mostly likely that they will not give you as much control as an SLR.
A compact camera is perfect for snapshots and practice.
Please note you cannot change lenses with this camera.


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4. CAMERA BRAND

This is an important one and probably one of the most confusing to a first time buyer. There's Canon, Nikon, Sony, Pentax, Minolta, Polaroid, Olympus &  Casio - just to name a few!
My answer would be a little bit biased and lean towards the Canon area, just because I find them easier to use and I've had Canons for two years now.
However.. the brand must be entirely what you feel comfortable with.

There has been a debate for years between Canon & Nikon, both are very good makes and probably the two top end brands. Most professionals use eiter one of these. So if you're looking to go pro, you're best bet is Canon or Nikon.
Smaller end brands are best suited for amateurs or for snapshots.

To help you, I've found to very good sites that review the cameras (below)

steves-digicams.com
dpreview.com


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5. WHERE TO BUY

There are a few places to purchase your camera, but you should do research before jumping into the deep end..

-> UK
I'd suggest Jessops or Jacobs. There is also warehouse websites which I highly recommend, Warehouseexpress is excellent value.
You'll also find they are in electrical stores such as
Currys or places such as Argos. However, electrical stores will not store higher end DSLRs.

-> US/Canada
I'd suggest Target or CircuitCity
or in Canada
Camera Canada or Best Buy

-> Other Countries You'll find most of the .com websites will ship to your country.

-> Online Stores
For a great deal, you're best bet is to buy your camera online.
Here are some trustworthy online sites that I recommend -
*Digital Rev
*Amazon
*Ebay
*Pixmania UK

To compare prices of digital cameras online, I recommend these websites -
*Kelkoo
*PriceRunner


MORE INFO?
If you require any more info, please feel free to note me.
I hope you found this information useful!

-lara


.
These are a selection of tips and tutorials both here and on deviantArt that can be useful for before, during, and after portions of taking a good photo.  This was originally created as a gathering of useful information for the members of #PhotographersClub, but they though it so helpful that it should be shared even further! :heart:


Tips & Tutorials on deviantART


:new: First off, did you know you can go here, [link] to search through all of the photography tutorials available here on dA! :omfg:


:camera: CAMERAS, QUALITY, AND JARGON!

:bulletblue:Camera Buying Guide - A very helpful guide for deciding which camera is best suited for your needs!
:bulletblue:How to buy a digial camera - Another great camera buying guide!
:bulletblue:The Megapixel Myth - Another helpful tutorial about image resolution and megapixels.
:bulletblue:Ins and Outs of Image Quality - A tutorial about how and why SLR's make better images when compared to their compact brethren.
:bulletblue: Sharpness on Canon EFS 18-55mm - Gives a visual comparison of the different f-stops of the Canon EF-S 18-55mm (kit lens).
:bulletblue: The Photography Dictionary - Understand all the photography jargon you hear people spout!


:camera: TAKING GREAT SHOTS!

:bulletblue: Photography Basics - A great guide for the photographer just starting out!
:bulletblue: Top 5 Mistakes - Top 5 Mistakes in Photography!
:bulletblue: Easy Home Studio - Make your own home studio!  
:bulletblue: Lighting in Photography - One of the most important aspects of photography!
:bulletblue: Depth of Field in Photography - A basic of great photography!
:bulletblue: Composition in Photography - Another basic of great photography!
:bulletblue: Landscape Photography - The world is too beautiful not to photograph!
:bulletblue: Portrait Photography - Don't be afraid to take great shots of people!
:bulletblue: Night Time Photography - Now you can get out there at night and get some great shots too!
:bulletblue: Infared Photography - Gotta have a SLR for this one folks.
:bulletblue: Light Painting - Long exposure light painting.
:bulletblue: Macro Photography - For those awesome macro shots!
:bulletblue: Water Droplet Photography - Make your own water droplet shots!
:bulletblue: Water Droplet Photography on Glass - Make your own water droplet shots with different patterns colors, etc.
:bulletblue: Shooting Smoke - How to make smokey photos!


:camera: PROCESSING YOUR PHOTOS!

:bulletblue: Resizing Your Shot - An easy way to resize your image in Photoshop
:bulletblue: How to Make A Border - PART 1 - Easy way to make a border for your photo.
:bulletblue: How to Make A Border - PART 2 - Easy way to make a border for your photo.
:bulletblue: Watermarking - Make a watermark for your image.
:bulletblue: Watermarking Tutorial - Another tuorital on how to watermark your photo.


:heart: If you found any of these tutorials helpful please don't hesitate to tell their creators so! I'm sure they would love to know that they helped you!


Links to other sites which provide photography tips
Photographytips.com
Top Ten Digital Photography Tips
Taking Great Pictures - from Kodak
Photography Tips from National Geographic
Tips on Architecture Photography
Tips on Portrait Photography
Tips on Landscape Photography
A Free Online Photography Course
Digital Camera Reviews and News
Lensman: Photography Forum for Critique
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